— a port older than its alphabet.
“Kerch sits at the eastern edge of Crimea, on the strait between the Black Sea and the Sea of Azov. The city is older than its alphabet. A Greek colony called Panticapaeum stood here in the seventh century BC, and the kurgan tombs of the Bosporan kings still cut the hills above the harbour. The bridge across the strait opened to road traffic in 2018.
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Kerch lies on the eastern tip of the Crimean Peninsula, on the western shore of the Kerch Strait that connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Azov. The population sits near 150,000. The city was founded in the seventh century BC as the Greek colony of Panticapaeum, and later became the capital of the Bosporan Kingdom. Mount Mithridates rises 91 metres above the harbour and carries the great Soviet-era stairway of 432 steps to the obelisk on the summit.
The Tsarsky Kurgan, a fourth-century-BC burial mound for a Bosporan king, sits in the city's northern outskirts and remains one of the best-preserved Greek monumental tombs on the Black Sea. The Yeni-Kale fortress, built by the Ottomans in 1699 to control the strait, holds the north shore. Above the harbour, the Church of John the Baptist is the oldest standing Christian building on the peninsula, with its earliest stonework dated to the eighth century. The layered ruins make Kerch one of the most stratified archaeological sites in eastern Europe.
The Kerch Strait is the only sea passage between the Black Sea and the Sea of Azov, running about forty-five kilometres long and as narrow as three kilometres at its tightest point. The Crimean Bridge, opened to road traffic in May 2018 and to rail in December 2019, crosses the strait at its narrow waist. At nineteen kilometres long it is the longest bridge in Europe. The water is shallow and the strait freezes most winters, when ferries stop and the gulls work the ice edge.