— — the island that sees tomorrow first.
“A bare basalt island in the middle of the Bering Strait, about four kilometres from its American sister Little Diomede and almost exactly on the International Date Line. The Russian side is uninhabited apart from a weather station and a border post. From the cliffs of Big Diomede you can see Alaska, twenty-one hours behind.
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Big Diomede, also called Ratmanov Island, is the larger of the two Diomede islands in the middle of the Bering Strait between the Chukchi Peninsula of Russia and the Seward Peninsula of Alaska. The island is about 10 square kilometres and rises to roughly 500 metres at its highest cliff. It belongs to the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug of the Russian Federation. The International Date Line runs through the strait between Big Diomede and Little Diomede, leaving the two islands about 21 hours apart in local civil time.
The Inupiat community that once lived on the island was relocated to the Russian mainland during the Cold War, and the island has had no permanent civilian population since. A small Russian border post and a weather station are the only year-round presence. Walruses haul out on the south-facing rocks in summer, and seabirds nest on the cliffs in spring and early summer. The wind off the strait is constant. Apart from helicopter resupply and the cries of murres and kittiwakes, the island is very quiet.
Big Diomede is not open to general visitors. The island sits in a closed Russian border zone, and access is controlled by the Federal Security Service. The strait between the two islands freezes solid for parts of winter, and a small number of ultra-distance swimmers and skiers have crossed it under permit, including Lynne Cox's 1987 swim from Little to Big Diomede during the late Cold War. The closest a casual visitor can reasonably get is the village on Little Diomede on the American side, on a clear day.