— — a Brâncuși city before the world knew the name.
“The unofficial capital of Oltenia, a low Wallachian city of plane trees, tram lines, and a quiet park that goes on for an hour if you let it. The Jean Mihail Palace holds six early Brâncuși works the sculptor donated himself, before Paris. A late-afternoon city, more than a midday one.
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Craiova sits in the Wallachian Plain at the southern edge of the Carpathian foothills, on the left bank of the Jiu River, about 230 kilometres southwest of Bucharest. It is the seat of Dolj County and the historical capital of Oltenia, with a population near 234,000 at the 2021 census. The University of Craiova, founded in 1947, and the long pedestrian Calea Unirii give the centre its scale. Around it the plain is flat, agricultural, and warm in summer, with the Jiu drifting slowly toward its confluence with the Danube downstream.
The Art Museum is housed in the Jean Mihail Palace, completed in 1907 to designs by the French architect Paul Gottereau, with marble staircases, Murano chandeliers, and stucco the colour of weak tea. Its permanent collection holds six Constantin Brâncuși sculptures from the artist's pre-Paris years, including a cast of the 1907 piece The Kiss. Nearby, the white-and-blue Madona Dudu Church, rebuilt several times since the eighteenth century, anchors the old quarter. The cathedral of Saint Demetrius dates in its present form to the 1930s, on a much older foundation.
Nicolae Romanescu Park, designed by the French landscape architect Édouard Redont and opened in 1903, covers about 96 hectares on the southern edge of the city. Redont's plan won a gold medal at the 1900 Paris World Fair before a single tree was planted. It holds an artificial lake, a suspension bridge, a small zoo, and a stone velodrome from 1896 still in use. The plane trees and oaks are now well over a century old, and on a weekday afternoon the long allées are mostly walked by neighbours who have always lived nearby.