— — a Saxon town the mountain stands over.
“A Saxon city ringed by the Carpathians, with the forested wedge of Tâmpa rising straight out of the old quarter. The Black Church holds the centre of Council Square; Strada Sforii, one of the narrowest streets in Europe, threads off to the side. Bran Castle is half an hour south. The town reads quietest in late autumn, when the last leaves go off the mountain.
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Brașov sits in central Romania at roughly 600 metres elevation, in a wide valley of the Southern Carpathians. The Saxon town was founded by the Teutonic Knights in 1211 and resettled by German colonists who built the walled core around the Council Square. Tâmpa, the wooded limestone ridge that rises to 960 metres directly behind the old town, is reached by a short cable car or a steep marked footpath. The county is part of the historic region of Transylvania, two and a half hours by train north of Bucharest.
The Black Church (Biserica Neagră) anchors the old town: a Lutheran Gothic hall church begun in 1383 and completed around 1477, the largest Gothic structure between Vienna and Istanbul. Its name comes from the soot left by the great fire of 1689, which gutted much of the city. Inside, an organ by Carl August Buchholz of Berlin (1839) is still played in summer recitals, and the walls hold one of the largest collections of Anatolian rugs outside Turkey, given as votive offerings by Saxon merchants.
The compact old town can be walked in a morning. The Black Church opens daily except Sundays and charges a small admission. Strada Sforii, threading between Cerbului and Poarta Schei streets, is just over a metre wide at its tightest point. The Tâmpa cable car climbs to the summit viewpoint in roughly three minutes; the marked path takes about an hour. Bran Castle, often associated with Bram Stoker's novel, lies 28 kilometres south and is reached by bus from the Autogara 2 station.