— — the granite that holds the city's morning.
“The Sé sits on the high ground above the Ribeira, two square towers and a rose window cut into granite the colour of river stone. Begun in the twelfth century, finished and refinished across eight hundred years. The cloister tiles run blue. The bells carry down to the river. From the terrace you can watch the rabelo boats turn under the Dom Luís bridge.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Porto Cathedral — the Sé do Porto — stands on the Pena Ventosa hill in the oldest part of the city, the Sé parish, above the Douro river and the Ribeira waterfront. Construction began in the first half of the twelfth century and the main fabric was largely complete by the thirteenth. The plan is Romanesque with later Gothic, Baroque, and eighteenth-century additions, including the loggia by the Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni. The historic centre of Porto, including the cathedral, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.
The cathedral reads as a fortress and was built to. Two squat bell towers, a crenellated parapet, a rose window cut deep into a thick west front. The granite is local, quarried from the same hills the city rests on, so the building and the streets share a colour. Inside, the fourteenth-century Gothic cloister carries blue-and-white azulejo panels added in the 1730s by the painter Vital Rifarto. The silver altarpiece in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament was famously plastered over during the Peninsular War to hide it from Napoleon's troops.
The cathedral is open daily, usually 9 a.m. to about 6:30 p.m. in summer and shorter hours in winter, with a small fee for the cloister and treasury and free entry to the nave. The terrace in front of the church gives one of the best free views in Porto — west across the rooftops, south over the Douro and the Dom Luís I bridge to the port lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia. The São Bento railway station, with its 20,000 azulejo tiles, is a short walk downhill.