— — a granite country that still belongs to its horses.
“The only national park in Portugal, in the Minho highlands against the Galician border. Granite ridges hold oak woods and yellow broom, and small herds of Garrano horses still graze the higher slopes. Above Soajo and Lindoso the stone-pillared espigueiros, communal granaries, stand in the village squares as they have for three hundred years. The waters of Vilarinho das Furnas show the old village in dry summers.
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Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês covers about 700 square kilometres across the Minho and Trás-os-Montes provinces of northwest Portugal, against the Galician border. Founded in 1971, it remains the only national park in the country. The park takes its name from two of its mountain ranges, the Serra da Peneda in the north and the Serra do Gerês in the south, with the Mourela plateau between them. Elevations rise from river valleys around 200 metres to Pico da Nevosa at 1,545.
The Peneda-Gerês holds one of the last viable populations of Iberian wolf west of the Côa, and a herd of about a thousand Garrano horses, a Celtic breed semi-feral on these slopes. Roman milestones along the Geira, the road from Bracara Augusta to Asturica Augusta, still line a stretch of the Homem river valley. Most villages, Pitões das Júnias, Sistelo, Soajo, Lindoso, count fewer than two hundred residents, with the espigueiros granaries set against the granite the houses are built from.
The park is open and free to enter; the visitor centres at Lamas de Mouro, Mezio, and Vila do Gerês carry maps and current trail status. The PR9 from Soajo through Branda da Aveleira gives the most-walked introduction to the espigueiros and the high pastures, about ten kilometres. Spring through October the granite trails are sound; winter brings mist and snow above 1,200 metres. The closest airport is Porto, around 130 kilometres south, with rental cars the practical way in.