— — a room where the bones do the speaking.
“A small chapel at the side of the Church of São Francisco in Évora, built in the early 17th century by Franciscan friars who needed to make space in the city's crowded graveyards. The walls and pillars are arranged from the bones of around five thousand people. An inscription above the entrance is not unkind. The light comes in low.
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The Capela dos Ossos sits inside the Igreja de São Francisco in central Évora, in Portugal's Alentejo region, about 130 kilometres east of Lisbon. The chapel was built in the early 17th century by Franciscan friars, who exhumed bones from around 43 monastic cemeteries inside the city to free the ground for new burials. The Church of São Francisco itself dates to between 1480 and 1510, in the Manueline-Gothic style. Évora's walled historic centre was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.
The chapel is roughly 18.7 metres long and 11 metres wide, divided into three small naves by four arches. The walls and eight columns are faced with the carefully arranged skulls and long bones of around five thousand people, set in lime mortar. The vaulted ceiling is painted brick, not bone, with allegorical figures of death. Above the entrance an inscription reads 'Nós ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos' — 'We bones that are here, for yours we wait.'
The chapel is open daily, generally 09:00 to 18:00, with a shorter timetable on Sundays and feast days. A combined ticket covers the chapel, the Church of São Francisco, and a small sacred-art museum upstairs. Photography is allowed without flash. Silence is requested inside the chapel itself, which holds only a small number of people at a time. Évora is reached from Lisbon in about 90 minutes by car on the A6, or by direct CP train in about an hour and a half.