— — a harbour town the sea both gave and took.
“A port city on the western shore of San Pedro Bay, the capital of Leyte province. The San Juanico Bridge, over two kilometres of curving concrete, connects it across the strait to Samar. American forces under General MacArthur waded ashore at Palo, just south of the city, in October 1944. The bay still folds in around the town the way it has for centuries, calm most mornings, with the fishing boats out before light.
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Tacloban is the capital of Leyte province and the regional centre of Eastern Visayas in the central Philippines. It sits on the northwestern shore of San Pedro Bay, an arm of the Leyte Gulf, with a population of roughly 250,000. The San Juanico Strait separates Leyte from Samar; the San Juanico Bridge, 2.16 kilometres long and completed in 1973, is the longest bridge in the country and the principal road link between the two islands. The city's natural harbour is sheltered from the Pacific by Samar's bulk.
The bay that shelters Tacloban is also what made the 2013 storm tragic. On 8 November Typhoon Haiyan, known locally as Yolanda, made landfall at category-five strength and pushed a storm surge of five to seven metres into San Pedro Bay. More than 6,300 people died across the country, with the worst losses in and around Tacloban. The city has rebuilt, with seawall and zoning changes along the foreshore. The same bay is calm on most mornings and the fishing boats go out before light.
The city marks several days through the year. The Leyte Landing on 20 October remembers General Douglas MacArthur and the Philippine and American forces who waded ashore at Red Beach in Palo on 20 October 1944, fulfilling his I shall return pledge; bronze figures stand in the shallows of the memorial park. The Pintados-Kasadyaan festival in late June fills the streets with painted dancers honouring the pre-colonial tattooed warriors of the Visayas, timed to the feast of the city's patron saints.