— — the island MacArthur waded back to.
“A long island of rice flats and coconut hills in the Eastern Visayas, shaped by the Pacific on one shoulder and the inland Camotes Sea on the other. Tacloban faces the San Juanico Strait, where the slim white arc of the bridge to Samar carries traffic between the two islands. South of the city, at Palo, the bronze figures of the MacArthur Landing Memorial wade ashore at Red Beach, where the return to the Philippines began in October 1944. The interior rises into the Central Cordillera, and the rain falls almost every afternoon.
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Leyte is the eighth-largest island in the Philippines, about 7,368 square kilometres, lying in the Eastern Visayas between Samar to the east and Cebu to the west. It is divided into two provinces, Leyte and Southern Leyte, both within Region VIII. The regional capital is Tacloban on the San Juanico Strait, connected to Samar by the 2.16-kilometre San Juanico Bridge, opened in 1973. The Central Cordillera runs the long axis of the island; the highest point is around 1,300 metres in the interior north of Ormoc.
On 20 October 1944 General Douglas MacArthur came ashore at Red Beach near the town of Palo, fulfilling the I shall return promise made on Corregidor two years earlier. The Battle of Leyte Gulf in the days that followed was the largest naval engagement of the Second World War. The MacArthur Landing Memorial on Red Beach, with its life-size bronze figures wading through a shallow lagoon, is the centre of the annual Leyte Landing commemoration every 20 October.
Leyte sits in the warm pool of the western Pacific and lies directly across the path of most tropical cyclones approaching the Philippines from the east. Typhoon Haiyan, known locally as Yolanda, made landfall over Eastern Samar and Leyte on 8 November 2013, driving a six-metre storm surge into Tacloban and killing more than six thousand people across the region. The city was rebuilt over the following decade, and the storm-warning sirens along the Tacloban waterfront are now part of daily life.