— — the green island the typhoons reach first.
“An island province east of Luzon, the first land the Pacific weather finds before it crosses the Philippines. Surfers come for the right-hand break at Puraran. Most of the interior is rice and coconut and abaca. The capital town, Virac, sits on the southern shore. Locals call it the Land of the Howling Winds.
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Catanduanes is an island province in the Bicol Region of the Philippines, separated from the eastern coast of Luzon by the Maqueda Channel. The island covers about 1,511 square kilometres and held a population near 271,000 at the 2020 census. The provincial capital, Virac, sits on the southern shore. Travellers reach the island by ferry from Tabaco port in Albay province; a small airport at Virac handles flights from Manila. The interior is hilly, planted with rice, coconut, and abaca, the fibre used in Manila hemp.
Catanduanes faces the open western Pacific with no land east of it before the Philippine Trench, which is why locals call it the Land of the Howling Winds. The province sits squarely in the typhoon corridor and is often the first Philippine landfall of storms tracking west from the open ocean. Super Typhoon Rolly, internationally named Goni, struck the island in November 2020 as one of the strongest landfalling tropical cyclones on record. Builders favour low concrete houses with sloped roofs.
The east coast holds Puraran Beach in Baras municipality, a small bay sheltered by a reef. The wave there, known as Majestics, is a hollow right-hand barrel that breaks over coral on a south-east swell. The surf season runs from August into November, overlapping with typhoon season; the cleanest swells often arrive a day or two after a distant storm has passed. The Bicolano fishing villages along the same coast use outrigger bancas and bring in tuna, marlin, and mackerel scad.