— — the city the river keeps.
“The largest city on earth you can't drive to. Iquitos sits on the Amazon in the Loreto rainforest, reached only by river or by plane. Belle Époque facades from the 1880s rubber boom, tiled in Portuguese azulejos, face a floating market on the Itaya. The river rises six metres in the wet season, and the houses rise with it.
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Capital of the Peruvian Loreto region and the largest city in the world inaccessible by road. About 470,000 people live here at the confluence of the Amazon, Nanay, and Itaya rivers, around 3,600 kilometres upstream of the Atlantic. Founded as a Jesuit mission in the 1750s, it boomed in the 1880s when rubber barons built the European-style ironwork facades that still line Calle Próspero, then collapsed when the seeds went to Malaya. The Iquitos-Nauta road, finished in 2005, runs ninety kilometres south and then ends in jungle.
The Amazon here is already three kilometres wide and rises and falls about six metres a year. From December through May the Belén neighbourhood at the south edge of the city floats — houses on rafts of balsawood, families paddling between them. In the dry months the same neighbourhood sits on mud. The municipal port at Masusa runs slow boats downriver to Manaus in Brazil, a five-day passage when the water is moving the right way.
Iquitos runs on river time. The Amazon rises through the first months of the year, peaks in May about eight metres above its low mark, then falls through the long dry months when sandbar beaches open and the boats run shallow. The Fiesta de San Juan on the 24th of June fills the surrounding villages with juane, drums, and bonfires. Coronel FAP Francisco Secada Vignetta airport handles daily flights from Lima; everything else moves by water.