— — the white peak above the valley.
“The highest peak in Peru and one of the highest in the tropics, rising 22,205 feet above the Callejón de Huaylas. Two summits sit side by side; the south is the higher of the pair. The mountain stands inside Huascarán National Park, which UNESCO inscribed for its blue glacial lakes, granite walls, and the cordillera's queñual woodlands. The town of Yungay rests at its foot.
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Huascarán is the highest mountain in Peru, with its south summit reaching 6,768 metres (22,205 feet) above sea level. It rises in the Cordillera Blanca of the Áncash Region, the most heavily glaciated tropical range in the world. The mountain has two summits, Huascarán Sur and Huascarán Norte, separated by a saddle called La Garganta. It sits inside Huascarán National Park, a 340,000-hectare reserve that UNESCO inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1985 for its glaciated peaks, lakes, and Polylepis woodlands.
Air on the summit holds about half the oxygen of sea level. Climbers acclimatise for days in Huaraz, at roughly 3,050 metres, before moving to base camp near 4,200 metres. The standard route up Huascarán Sur takes most parties four to six days from base camp and requires glacier travel, fixed ropes through the Garganta, and a long final summit push. Frostbite, pulmonary edema, and crevasse falls are the recurring hazards. Conditions are most stable from May through September.
Huascarán National Park is reached from Huaraz, the regional capital, about an eight-hour bus ride north of Lima. The Llanganuco lakes, a turquoise pair at the foot of the mountain, are the most visited corner of the park and reachable by car on a single-day trip. Entry to the high routes requires a registered guide and a park permit. The 1970 Ancash earthquake triggered a debris avalanche off Huascarán's north face that buried the town of Yungay, killing roughly 20,000 people.