— — the city the Inca built and the Spanish built over.
“Cusco sits in a high Andean valley at roughly 3,400 metres, the historic capital of the Inca Empire and the threshold to Machu Picchu. The Spanish built their cathedral and arcaded plaza directly on top of Inca temple foundations; the lower walls of the older city, dry-fitted in dark andesite, still hold up the colonial blocks above them. Quechua is spoken in the markets.
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Cusco lies in the southeastern Peruvian Andes at an elevation of about 3,400 metres, roughly 11,150 feet. The metropolitan area holds around 430,000 people. The city was the capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th century until the Spanish conquest of 1533, after which it became a colonial administrative centre for the viceroyalty of Peru. UNESCO inscribed the historic centre as a World Heritage site in 1983 for its layered Inca and colonial fabric. It is the main staging point for visits to Machu Picchu.
The Inca built Cusco in fitted andesite and limestone, dry-stone walls so precisely cut that no mortar was used and the joints still resist a knife blade five centuries later. After 1533 the Spanish dismantled the upper courses of the major temples and built churches and houses directly on the Inca bases. The cathedral on the Plaza de Armas sits on the palace of Inca Viracocha; the Santo Domingo monastery rises from the walls of Qorikancha, the empire's principal sun temple.
Cusco's altitude affects nearly every arrival. The city sits roughly 1,000 metres higher than Bogotá and 1,200 metres higher than Aspen, with measurably thinner air. Local practice is to chew coca leaves or drink coca tea, mate de coca, as a mild altitude aid, a custom that predates the Spanish by centuries. Most travel guides recommend two nights of rest before attempting the Inca Trail or the high passes of the Sacred Valley. The descent into the valley itself brings noticeable relief.