— — the slow heat of the river capital.
“One of the oldest cities in South America, founded in 1537 on a low bluff over the Paraguay River. The historic centre still turns around the Palacio de los López, the Cabildo, and the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes. Subtropical heat hangs over the streets most of the year. River boats run downstream toward the Paraná, and the jacarandas come into blue every spring.
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Asunción is the capital and largest city of Paraguay, set on the east bank of the Paraguay River across from the Gran Chaco. The metropolitan area holds about 2.3 million people, roughly a third of the country's population. The city was founded on 15 August 1537 by Spanish conquistador Juan de Salazar y Espinosa and served as the mother colony from which Buenos Aires was later resettled. Its centre still concentrates around the Plaza de los Héroes and the riverfront Palacio de los López.
The civic core is a quiet concentration of nineteenth-century Italianate stonework. The Palacio de los López, completed in 1892, was modelled after Versailles and now serves as the seat of government. Across the square the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes, finished after the Chaco War, holds the remains of Carlos Antonio López, Francisco Solano López, and the unknown soldiers of two wars. The Cabildo, built in the early nineteenth century as the legislative house, is now the cultural museum of the Republic.
Asunción runs hot. Summer highs from December through February regularly clear 35°C with heavy humidity off the river, and short violent storms cool the city through late afternoon. The pleasant window is May through August: dry, sunny, daytime in the low twenties, occasional cool fronts down from Patagonia. Spring brings the jacarandas into full blue along Avenida Mariscal López and through the central plazas, the city's quiet flower season before the heat returns in November.