— — the ruined temple that taught Kashmir to read.
“The ruined Hindu temple and ancient seat of learning at Sharda, in the Neelum Valley of Azad Kashmir. From the 6th to the 12th century Sharada Peeth was one of the great universities of the subcontinent, the place where the Sharada script was set down. Today its stone walls stand roofless above the river, watched over by the village that took its name.
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Sharada Peeth stands at about 1,981 metres in the Neelum Valley of Pakistan-administered Kashmir, roughly 130 kilometres from Muzaffarabad. The ruined temple sits near the confluence of the Madhumati stream and the Kishanganga, which is called the Neelum on this side of the line of control. It was a centre of learning between the 6th and 12th centuries and one of the three holiest Shakti Peethas in Kashmiri Hindu tradition. The site has been protected under Pakistani heritage law since 2007.
What remains is a roughly square enclosure of grey limestone blocks, about 22 metres on each side, with the foundations of a central sanctum still visible. The 2005 Kashmir earthquake damaged parts of the perimeter. The site was once the centre of Sharada University, said to have rivalled Nalanda in scope, and the Sharada script, used to write Sanskrit and old Kashmiri for nearly a thousand years, was developed in its scriptorium. Brief cross-line pilgrim crossings opened in 2023.
Sharda village sits a long day's drive up the Neelum Valley road from Muzaffarabad. The route follows the river through forested mountains and is closed by snow for parts of winter. Foreign visitors require an Azad Kashmir permit and most arrange the journey with a local guide. The ruin itself is unstaffed and free to walk. The Pakistani government announced restoration work in 2022. Late spring through early autumn is the practical window for the drive and the visit.