— the city the two rivers hold.
“A Punjabi city the two rivers bracket, the Chenab and the Jhelum running past on either side. Old fan workshops and inlay-furniture makers keep the lanes humming. The pottery here is a particular cobalt blue, slow-worked by families who have done this for generations. The Mughal emperor Akbar founded the town in 1580. People say the work is what holds it together.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
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Gujrat sits in the upper Punjab plain, between the Chenab and Jhelum rivers, about 120 kilometres north of Lahore. The current town was established by the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1580 on the site of older settlements. It anchors Gujrat District, with a population near 390,000, and grew on the trade road between Lahore and the Kashmir foothills. The shrine of Shah Daula, the seventeenth-century Sufi saint, still draws pilgrims to the old quarter.
The city is one of Pakistan's enduring craft towns. Blue-and-white Gujrat pottery, marked by cobalt floral work on a white ground, has been made here since the Mughal period. Wood-inlay furniture, with brass and bone set into sheesham, is a second signature. From the early twentieth century Gujrat also became the country's ceiling-fan capital, with workshops along the GT Road still shipping fans across South Asia and the Gulf, and hundreds of small foundries clustered inside the city limits.
Gujrat is reached from Lahore in about two hours on the M2 motorway, or by train on the Karachi-Peshawar main line. The old city centres on the bazaar around the Shah Daula shrine, with the fan and furniture markets ringing it. Winters between December and February are mild and clear, while summers from May into August routinely climb above 40 degrees Celsius. Most travellers come through on the way to the Kashmir hills or down from Islamabad, 130 kilometres to the northwest.