— — a red-walled city older than the maps.
“One of the seven original Hausa city-states. The walls are pounded earth, the colour of dried date. The Friday Mosque sits inside a compound that goes back to the early 1800s, the work of the master builder known as Babban Gwani. Ahmadu Bello University holds the south side of the city now. Students walk past the old gates. from the studio
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Zaria is a city in Kaduna State, in northern Nigeria, about 150 kilometres south of Kano on the old trans-Saharan trade road. It grew out of Zazzau, one of the seven original Hausa kingdoms, and was fortified with earthen walls in the late sixteenth century under Queen Amina. The walled old city (the birni) sits beside a newer industrial and university quarter. The metropolitan population is roughly one million. The Emir of Zazzau still keeps his palace inside the old walls.
The Friday Mosque of Zaria was built around 1834 by the master mason Mallam Mikhaila, called Babban Gwani, the great expert, and remains one of the finest examples of pre-colonial Hausa architecture in West Africa. The roof rests on a system of mud-brick arches and ribbed vaults carried on stout pillars, all worked in the local tubali brick. The Emir's palace and the surviving city gates use the same earthen technique. The walls glow ochre at the end of the day.
Zaria is reached from Kaduna or Kano by road, about three hours from either. Ahmadu Bello University, founded in 1962 on the southern edge of the city, is among the largest universities in sub-Saharan Africa and draws students from across the country. Visitors should dress modestly inside the old city and ask permission before photographing the Friday Mosque or the Emir's palace. The dry season, November through February, brings cool harmattan mornings and is the best window for travel.