— — the brick city that holds carnival like a secret.
“A southern Dutch city of brick and water, the Mark river bending through its old centre. The Grote Kerk's spire rises above the market square, where stalls have stood for seven hundred years. Breda is quietly Catholic in a Protestant country, and every spring the carnival turns the streets upside down for three days.
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Breda sits in the province of North Brabant in the southern Netherlands, where the Mark and Aa rivers meet about 50 kilometres south of Rotterdam. The city was granted town rights in 1252 and grew under the Lords of Breda and later the House of Orange-Nassau. Its population is roughly 185,000, making it the ninth-largest municipality in the country. The historic centre is anchored by the Grote Markt and the Grote Kerk, a Brabantine Gothic church begun in the 15th century. The Castle of Breda now houses the Royal Military Academy.
The Grote Kerk, dedicated to Our Lady, was built between roughly 1410 and 1547 in the Brabantine Gothic style, its tower reaching 97 metres. Inside lies the tomb of Engelbert II of Nassau, a Renaissance monument carved in marble and alabaster around 1530. The Castle of Breda dates to 1198 and was rebuilt as a Renaissance palace by Henry III of Nassau, designed in part by the Italian architect Tommaso Vincidor. The Spanjaardsgat, a small water gate flanked by two round towers from 1530, marks the harbour entrance to the old town.
Breda celebrates Carnival every year in the three days before Ash Wednesday, when the city renames itself Kielegat. The tradition draws on the Catholic south's pre-Lenten custom and has been documented in Breda since at least the 19th century. Streets fill with costumed groups, brass bands, and the parade of decorated wagons on the Sunday. Outside Carnival, the Breda Jazz Festival in May fills the old centre with open-air stages, and Singelloop in October is one of the country's larger road races. The rhythm of the city is set by these returns.