— — the river that writes a new bed every monsoon.
“The Sapta Koshi, seven rivers braided into one, gathers off the south face of the Himalaya and crosses the Terai before joining the Ganges in Bihar. Below the barrage at Bhimnagar the river has shifted its course more than a hundred miles in two centuries. People here call it the Sorrow. The water still comes down jade-green out of the gorge above Chatra.
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The Kosi, or Sapta Koshi, is the largest river of eastern Nepal, formed by the confluence of seven Himalayan tributaries including the Sun Koshi, the Arun from Tibet and the Tamur from the Kangchenjunga massif. From the Chatra gorge it flows roughly 720 kilometres south across the Terai and into the Indian state of Bihar, where it joins the Ganges near Kursela. The catchment of about 74,500 square kilometres drains some of the highest terrain on earth, including the south flank of Kangchenjunga.
The Kosi carries one of the heaviest sediment loads of any river in the world, with annual transport estimated at roughly 120 million tons at the Chatra gauge. That sediment is why the lower river migrates so freely across the Bihar plain; the channel has shifted approximately 120 kilometres westward over the past 250 years. The Koshi Barrage at Bhimnagar, opened in 1963 under a joint Nepal-India treaty, regulates irrigation flow but cannot contain the monsoon peak, when discharge can exceed 18,000 cubic metres per second.
The river runs in two registers. From October through May the gorge water at Chatra clears to a glacial jade, and the lower channel braids quietly across the Terai sandbars. From June through September the south-west monsoon brings the peak. The breach of August 18, 2008, displaced more than two million people across Bihar. The Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve on the Nepal side protects wintering bar-headed geese, gangetic dolphin in the river, and the last wild population of arna, the Indian water buffalo.