— — the white mountain the gorge keeps its distance from.
“The seventh-highest mountain on earth, its summit at 8,167 metres above the Kali Gandaki Gorge. The name comes from Sanskrit, dhawala giri, the white mountain. From the trail above Marpha the south face rises in a single sweep no photograph quite holds. The villages below carry on with the apple harvest, used to it.
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Dhaulagiri I rises to 8,167 metres in western Nepal, the seventh-highest peak on earth and the highest mountain wholly inside one country. It anchors a massif of six named summits west of the Kali Gandaki, the river whose gorge between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna is among the deepest on the planet. The trailhead villages of Marpha and Tukuche sit in the rain shadow at around 2,600 metres, in the old salt-trade corridor between Mustang and the Indian plains.
The summit stands roughly 7,000 vertical metres above the Kali Gandaki riverbed, the steepest such relief on the planet. Air pressure at the top is about a third of sea level; the south face climbs through what climbers call the death zone above 8,000 metres. Below the snowline the wind funnels down the gorge so steadily that Jomsom airport, at 2,700 metres, closes most afternoons by noon. The juniper line ends near 4,200 metres; above that, only lichen and stone.
The first ascent came on 13 May 1960, by a Swiss-Austrian team led by Max Eiselin, the last of the 8,000-metre giants to fall, ten years after Annapurna. Spring and autumn are the climbing windows, between the winter jet stream and the summer monsoon. The Dhaulagiri Circuit trek, opened to outsiders in the 1990s, crosses the French Pass at 5,360 metres. October sees the most stable weather; the apple harvest in Marpha runs through that same month.