— — mist on the elephant-grass at first light.
“Sal forest and tall grasslands along the Rapti River in southern Nepal, where the Himalayas drop down to the Indian plain. Greater one-horned rhinoceros stand chest-deep in oxbow pools at dawn; Bengal tigers leave tracks on the riverbank but seldom show themselves. From the village of Sauraha the canoes go out before the heat.
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Chitwan National Park covers about 952 square kilometres of subtropical lowland in the Inner Terai of south-central Nepal, between the Siwalik foothills and the Indian border. The park became Nepal's first national park in 1973 and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1984. Habitats run from sal forest and riverine jungle to floodplain grasslands of elephant grass that stand four metres tall at the end of the monsoon. The Rapti, Reu, and Narayani rivers form the northern boundary. The village of Sauraha is the main gateway, a six-hour bus ride from Kathmandu.
The park has three working seasons. The dry cool months from October to February bring clear mornings, mist on the rivers, and the best wildlife sightings: rhinos and deer pull in close to the open water. March through May runs hot and dry; grasses are cut short by villagers, which raises the chance of seeing a tiger but pushes temperatures past 38°C. The monsoon arrives in June and lasts through September. The Rapti rises, jeep tracks turn to mud, and most lodges close or run a quiet skeleton schedule.
Sauraha on the park's northeast edge is the main gateway, with a national park office that issues day permits and assigns mandatory naturalist guides. The standard programs are dawn jeep safaris into the central grasslands, dugout canoe trips down the Rapti for gharial and kingfishers, and walking safaris with two guides for those willing to sign the waiver. The riding-elephant safaris that once defined Chitwan are being phased out under welfare reforms led by World Animal Protection and local NGOs; reputable lodges now offer elephant-encounter visits at the breeding centre instead.