— the morning the balloons go up over the temples.
“A dry plain on a bend of the Irrawaddy in central Myanmar where more than two thousand brick stupas and temples still stand. The Pagan Kingdom built them between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries; UNESCO inscribed the site in 2019. At dawn a haze of dust and woodsmoke rises off the plain and the balloons climb above Ananda and Dhammayangyi.
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Bagan covers about 104 square kilometres on the eastern bank of the Irrawaddy River in central Myanmar, roughly 290 kilometres south-west of Mandalay. It was the capital of the Pagan Kingdom, the first state to unify the regions of present-day Myanmar, from about 1044 to 1297. UNESCO inscribed Bagan as a World Heritage Site in 2019. More than two thousand brick stupas, temples, and monasteries survive on the plain, from an original construction count estimated above ten thousand.
Ananda Temple, finished around 1105 under King Kyansittha, is the most refined survivor — a cruciform plan with four standing Buddhas and a gilded sikhara. Dhammayangyi, the largest temple by mass, was raised by King Narathu in the 1170s but never completed inside. Thatbyinnyu rises about 61 metres, the tallest on the plain. Brick laid without mortar in places, stucco that still holds in others, and a colour the warm rose of old terracotta.
The reason most visitors come is the sunrise. Hot-air balloon operations run from October through March, weather permitting, lifting off before first light from the river plain. Ground viewpoints include the Bulethi terrace and several earthen mounds, since the 2016 earthquake closed the temple terraces themselves to climbing. The dust haze across the plain catches first light and turns the brick the colour of warm clay for about twenty minutes before the day flattens it.