— — a small capital under the karst hills.
“Montenegro's quiet capital, where the Ribnica empties into the Morača under low karst hills. The Ottoman quarter of Stara Varoš keeps a clock tower from the seventeenth century; across the river the white Millennium Bridge stretches over the green water. A short drive north, the Roman ruins of Doclea still mark the floor of the valley. The city wears its layers lightly, and the heat settles into the stone by mid-afternoon.
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Podgorica sits at about 44 metres above sea level on the southern Bjelopavlići plain, where the Ribnica joins the Morača in central Montenegro. It has been the capital since 1946 — known as Titograd until 1992, when the older name was restored after Montenegrin sovereignty matters resurfaced. The municipality holds roughly 150,000 residents, around a quarter of Montenegro's population. Five rivers meet within the city limits: the Morača, Ribnica, Cijevna, Sitnica, and Zeta.
The Ottoman old town of Stara Varoš keeps a network of narrow lanes and the Sahat Kula clock tower, built in 1667 and still the symbol of the old city. Three kilometres north, the Roman ruins of Doclea — a provincial capital founded in the first century CE — spread across the meadow where the Zeta and Morača meet. The Millennium Bridge, opened in 2005, runs 173 metres across the Morača on a single 57-metre pylon and has become the modern silhouette of the city.
Five rivers run through Podgorica, and the Morača is the one the city is built along. It rises in the Sinjajevina mountains, drops through a thousand-metre canyon to the north, then slows across the valley floor before joining Lake Skadar to the south. The Cijevna, which meets the Morača at the city's eastern edge, falls over a low travertine ledge locals call Niagara — a nickname, not the Canadian original. In late summer the riverbeds run wide and shallow, with green pools between the limestone cobbles.