— — a stone city held quiet by the vines around it.
“The capital of Moldova, set on a low plateau where the Bâc River bends. Limestone buildings, a long central park around the cathedral, the white triumphal arch from 1840 facing the government house. South of the city, the Mileștii Mici cellar runs for two hundred kilometres underground, the largest wine collection in the world. Walk the centre on a warm evening and the linden trees keep most of the heat.
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Chișinău is the capital and largest city of Moldova, set on the Bâc River roughly fifty kilometres west of the Dniester. The population is about 635,000, more than a fifth of the country. The city was first recorded in 1436 as a small monastery settlement, grew under Ottoman and then Russian administration, and was rebuilt after heavy damage in the Second World War. It sits within Moldova's wine region, with the Cricova and Mileștii Mici cellars within easy reach to the north and south of the city.
The historic centre is built largely of local cotelet limestone, a soft pale stone quarried from the hills around the city. The Nativity Cathedral, completed in 1836, anchors Cathedral Park. Its bell tower was destroyed under Soviet rule and rebuilt after independence. The white Holy Gates, often called the Triumphal Arch, were raised in 1840 to mark the Russian victory over the Ottomans. Stephen the Great's monument stands at the park's northern entrance, where Bulevardul Ștefan cel Mare, the city's main avenue, begins its long run east.
Moldova measures its calendar in wine. The harvest runs September into October, and National Wine Day, held on the first weekend of October, fills Chișinău's central square with growers from across the country. Cricova, fifteen kilometres north, runs 120 kilometres of tunnels storing more than a million bottles. Mileștii Mici, twenty kilometres south, holds the Guinness record for the world's largest wine collection, roughly two million bottles cellared in two hundred kilometres of galleries cut from old limestone quarries below the plateau.