— — a port that learned to dance before it slept.
“The old Spanish landing on the Gulf of Mexico, half a day east of the capital and the country's oldest functioning port. The zócalo fills after dark with marimba and the long brass of danzón, played out from under the arcades the way it has been for a hundred years. San Juan de Ulúa squats across the harbour, coral-block walls darkening as the sea breeze comes up. from the studio
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The city of Veracruz sits on the Gulf of Mexico in the state of Veracruz, about 400 kilometres east of Mexico City across the Sierra Madre Oriental. Hernán Cortés founded the original settlement on Good Friday in 1519 under the name Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz, making it the first European municipality on the North American mainland. The modern city of roughly 600,000 remains the country's busiest commercial port.
San Juan de Ulúa, the coral-block fortress on a small island across the harbour, was built and rebuilt between 1535 and the late nineteenth century to defend the port from English, French, and Dutch fleets. It later served as a prison under Porfirio Díaz. The fortress is now a federally protected historic site and one of the oldest standing Spanish military structures in the Americas.
Veracruz keeps two civic rhythms a son jarocho ear can hear from blocks away. Carnaval, held in the nine days before Ash Wednesday, is among the oldest in the Americas and pulls full barrios into the streets. The Festival Internacional Afrocaribeño in July gathers musicians from across the Caribbean basin. Both close, by tradition, with marimba and danzón under the zócalo arcades.