— — the river two countries call by different names.
“From the Mexican side the river is the Río Bravo del Norte. It rises in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, runs south through New Mexico, then turns east to draw the long border with Texas before reaching the Gulf at Matamoros. In the canyons of the Cañón de Santa Elena protected area, limestone walls rise four hundred and fifty metres above slow green water. The river is older than the line it carries.
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The Rio Grande, known in Mexico as the Río Bravo del Norte, runs roughly 3,051 kilometres from the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado to the Gulf of Mexico at the twin cities of Matamoros and Brownsville. It is the fifth-longest river in North America and forms 2,018 kilometres of the boundary between Mexico and the United States, the longest river border on the continent. On the Mexican side it touches four states — Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León, and Tamaulipas — and gathers its largest tributary, the Río Conchos, near Ojinaga.
The most dramatic stretch of the river is the canyon country along the Big Bend, where the Río Bravo has cut three major canyons through Cretaceous limestone over millions of years. Santa Elena, the westernmost, rises four hundred and fifty metres above a river barely thirty metres wide at the bottom. On the Mexican bank the canyon sits inside the Cañón de Santa Elena protected area, which covers 2,772 square kilometres of the Sierra Ponce and Sierra San Vicente. The water runs slow and green outside the summer storm pulses.
Outside the border cities, the Río Bravo runs through some of the emptiest country on the continent. Between Ojinaga and Boquillas the only settlements are tiny ejidos and the historic village of Boquillas del Carmen, which depends on a small rowed-boat crossing into Big Bend National Park for most of its economy. Coyotes, javelinas, and black bears use the same canyons. At night the only sound for kilometres is the river itself, and the sky over the Sierra del Carmen carries Bortle 1 darkness most of the year.