— — the desert that learned to swim.
“The capital of Baja California Sur sits on a long shallow bay the locals call El Mogote. Pelicans work the shoreline at the same hour the fishing pangas come in. Across the water lies Espíritu Santo, the island Cousteau called the aquarium of the world. The Malecón runs three kilometres along the harbour and most evenings the wind drops to nothing about an hour before the sun. from the studio
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La Paz is the capital of the Mexican state of Baja California Sur, on the western shore of the Sea of Cortez about 220 kilometres north of Cabo San Lucas. The city of roughly 290,000 holds a sheltered bay protected by a long sandbar, El Mogote, and looks across open water to Isla Espíritu Santo, a UNESCO-listed island reserve since 2005. The seaside Malecón runs three kilometres past low pastel buildings, fishing co-ops, and the cathedral of Nuestra Señora de La Paz, built in 1861 on the site of a 1720 Jesuit mission.
The Sea of Cortez between La Paz and Espíritu Santo is one of the most biologically rich bodies of water on the planet. Jacques Cousteau called it the world's aquarium. Whale sharks arrive in the shallow bay from roughly October through April and feed within sight of the Malecón. Bottlenose dolphins, mobula rays, and a resident sea-lion colony at Los Islotes hold the channel year-round. Visibility through the dry season averages fifteen to twenty metres, and the water rarely drops below twenty degrees Celsius.
The dry winter months from November through April are the season most travellers come for. Daytime temperatures sit around 24 to 28 degrees, the bay is calm, and the whale-shark aggregation is in. Summer brings high heat, humidity, and the chubasco storms that roll off the mainland through August and September. Hurricane Odile crossed the peninsula in September 2014 and reshaped parts of the Malecón. The town runs at a different pace in summer; the diving and sailing trade waits for the wind to come back in October.