— — a river learning to come back.
“The river crosses into Mexico at the Morelos Dam, runs through the irrigated farms of the Mexicali Valley, then thins across the Sonora-Baja border until it reaches what is left of its delta on the Sea of Cortez. For decades the channel ran dry in its lower miles. Since 2014 a handful of pulse flows have begun to return the cottonwoods to the bed.
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The Colorado enters Mexico at Morelos Dam, on the Arizona-Baja California line near San Luis Río Colorado, after a roughly 2,330-kilometre run from its headwaters in Rocky Mountain National Park. The last 160 kilometres in Mexico cross the Mexicali Valley between Sonora and Baja California, ending in a delta on the upper Gulf of California, also called the Sea of Cortez. The 1944 US-Mexico Water Treaty allocates Mexico an annual 1.85 million acre-feet of river water, most of it diverted for irrigation at Morelos.
Below the dams the channel has been dry for much of the last sixty years. Glen Canyon and Hoover, the agricultural diversions of the Imperial Valley, and the Mexicali allocations leave little for the bed. Minute 319, signed in 2012, and Minute 323 in 2017 set aside small environmental flows. The pulse release of March 2014 reached the Sea of Cortez for the first time in decades, and follow-on flows since have brought roughly 1,000 hectares of cottonwood and willow back along the lower reach.
The Mexican delta was once one of the largest desert estuaries in the world, a million-acre wetland of cottonwood, mesquite, and brackish marsh that drew Aldo Leopold and his brother on a canoe trip in 1922. Most of that landscape is gone. What remains is the Upper Gulf of California and Colorado River Delta Biosphere Reserve, established in 1993 across about 935,000 hectares of Sonora and Baja California, where the vaquita porpoise and the totoaba make their last stand.