— — the lights of the strait, just before the bridge.
“The southern tip of peninsular Malaysia, where the Tebrau Strait narrows into the Johor-Singapore Causeway. The white domes of the Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque sit above the water; the old shophouses of Jalan Tan Hiok Nee keep their colours. A city that lives in two clocks — the daily commute across the strait, and the slower hours of laksa stalls and night markets along Jalan Wong Ah Fook.
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Johor Bahru is the capital of Johor state and the southernmost city on mainland Asia, separated from Singapore by the 1,056-metre Johor-Singapore Causeway opened in 1923. Population sits near 860,000 in the city proper and more than 1.6 million across the metropolitan area, making it Malaysia's second-largest urban region. The city grew under Sultan Abu Bakar in the late nineteenth century, when the royal seat moved from Telok Blangah to the north bank of the Tebrau Strait.
The Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque, finished in 1900, sits on a coastal bluff overlooking the strait. Its four minarets borrow the form of British clock towers — a marker of the Victorian-era contact that shaped the late nineteenth-century Johor sultanate. The nearby Istana Besar, the old royal palace built in 1866 in Anglo-Malay style, holds the Royal Abu Bakar Museum. Both buildings face the water, oriented to the same strait the city has always been organised around.
Most visitors arrive overland from Singapore through the Causeway or the newer Second Link at Tuas, with the crossing busiest before 8 a.m. and after 6 p.m. on weekdays. The city centre sits within walking distance of the CIQ complex, where buses from Larkin Sentral connect to the rest of peninsular Malaysia. Hawker stalls along Jalan Wong Ah Fook stay open late; the Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque admits non-Muslim visitors outside prayer hours.