— — a city the limestone holds.
“Ipoh sits in the Kinta Valley of Perak, ringed by sheer limestone karst hills full of cave temples. The tin boom of the late nineteenth century built the shophouses of the Old Town along the Kinta River. White coffee was invented in one of those shops. The city is known for bean sprout chicken, dim sum at dawn, and a quiet that surprises visitors from Kuala Lumpur.
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Ipoh is the capital of Perak state, in the Kinta Valley of northern peninsular Malaysia, about two hundred kilometres north of Kuala Lumpur. The metropolitan area holds roughly 700,000 residents. The city sits in a basin ringed by sheer limestone karst hills, the most distinctive landform of the region. The Kinta River runs north through the city, dividing the colonial-era Old Town on its west bank from the New Town on the east. The British developed the city as the administrative seat of the Kinta tin field in the 1880s.
The limestone hills around Ipoh are the eroded core of an ancient reef, roughly 400 million years old, riddled with caves that local Buddhist and Taoist communities have turned into temples since the late nineteenth century. The Sam Poh Tong cave temple, founded in 1890, sits inside a hill on the southern edge of the city. The Perak Cave Temple, founded in 1926 on the north side, holds a mural-painted cavern and a viewpoint above the valley reached by 450 steps.
Ipoh is best known for its food. The town claims the invention of white coffee, made with beans roasted in palm-oil margarine and served sweet and creamy. Tauge ayam, bean sprout chicken, pairs poached chicken with the short fat sprouts grown in Kinta Valley water. Dim sum opens at dawn in the New Town. The colonial-era Ipoh railway station, completed in 1917 by the architect Arthur Benison Hubback, faces the padang on the Old Town side and still carries the ETS line to Kuala Lumpur and Penang.