— — a royal town the padi fields surround.
“The state capital of Kedah, ringed by some of the flattest, greenest rice country in the peninsula. The old royal quarter still holds the shape it had a century ago: the Zahir Mosque under its black domes, the yellow audience hall of Balai Besar, the morning crowd at Pekan Rabu market. Above it all the slim Alor Setar Tower marks the sky, the way a minaret used to. from the studio
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Alor Setar is the capital of Kedah, the state Malaysians call the rice bowl of the peninsula. It sits on the flat alluvial plain a short drive from the Thai border, roughly 93 kilometres north of George Town on Penang. The royal quarter holds four anchor buildings within walking distance of one another: the Zahir Mosque, the yellow Balai Besar audience hall, the Balai Nobat that keeps the sultan's ceremonial orchestra, and the old clock tower. Mahathir Mohamad, the country's longest-serving prime minister, was born here in 1925.
The Zahir Mosque was completed in 1912 and was for many years considered one of the grandest in the country, with five large black domes set above an open prayer hall on a plot once used as a burial ground for Kedah warriors. The Balai Besar, the royal audience hall painted soft yellow, was built originally in 1735 and rebuilt in 1898 with a tiled roof and carved timber columns. Across the square, the smaller octagonal Balai Nobat houses the nobat, the ceremonial drums and flutes played only at royal occasions.
Most visitors arrive at Sultan Abdul Halim Airport on a short flight from Kuala Lumpur, or by train on the West Coast line. The royal square is walkable in an afternoon: the Zahir Mosque, the Balai Besar, the State Museum, the Pekan Rabu morning market where coconut sweets and pulut udang are sold under tin roofs. The slim Alor Setar Tower rises 165 metres above the city and offers an observation deck looking out over the rice plain toward Gunung Jerai on the southern horizon.