— — a capital with a forest at its centre.
“Malawi's capital, set on the high plateau between Lake Malawi and the Zambian border. The city has two halves: Old Town along the Lilongwe River, where the markets and the long-haul buses run, and Capital Hill to the north, where the ministries sit on wide avenues. Between them lies the Lilongwe Wildlife Sanctuary, almost two hundred hectares of miombo woodland still inside the city. Dawn here is bird-loud. The dry season comes in cool and clear, and the jacarandas turn the residential lanes purple in October.
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Lilongwe sits on Malawi's central plateau at about 1,050 metres above sea level, roughly halfway between Lake Malawi to the east and the Zambian border to the west. It became the national capital in 1975, replacing Zomba, after a planned new district was laid out north of the original trading town. The population is now over a million, making it the country's largest city, ahead of the older commercial centre at Blantyre. The Lilongwe River runs through the middle, separating Old Town from the planned Capital City district.
Kamuzu International Airport, about twenty-five kilometres north of the centre, is the main gateway. Old Town holds the Lilongwe Central Market and Kamuzu Mausoleum; Capital City holds the parliament, the State House grounds, and most embassies along Presidential Way. The Lilongwe Wildlife Centre, founded in 2008 on the sanctuary land between the two districts, takes in rescued primates and pangolins. May through August is the cool dry season, with daytime highs in the low twenties Celsius and very little rain.
Two seasons govern the year on the central plateau. The rains run from late November through April, brought up from the Indian Ocean, and they turn the surrounding maize country deep green. The dry season runs May through October. By September the air carries dust and the smell of cooking fires; in early October the jacarandas planted along the residential streets bloom in long purple corridors, weeks before the first storms arrive. Nights are cool year-round at this elevation.