— — a stone city the sea keeps half.
“Tyre is older than almost anywhere still lived in. The Phoenicians made purple dye here from sea snails and sent it across the Mediterranean. Roman roads still run under modern streets. The harbour is small now, the fishing boats painted blue and white. Cats sleep on column drums by the water. The light off the sea is the same light Hiram of Tyre worked under.
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Tyre sits on the Mediterranean coast of southern Lebanon, about 80 km south of Beirut and 20 km north of the Israeli border. The old city was founded on an island that Alexander the Great joined to the mainland by causeway in 332 BC; the silt that gathered against his work made the peninsula the modern town occupies. UNESCO listed Tyre as a World Heritage site in 1984 for its Phoenician, Roman, and Crusader layers. The Roman hippodrome at Al-Bass is one of the largest surviving anywhere.
The ruins at Al-Bass spread across a former necropolis and include the second-century Roman hippodrome, a monumental archway, and a paved road lined with marble sarcophagi. The hippodrome held about 20,000 spectators and ran chariot races on a 480 metre track. A second site by the harbour preserves Phoenician foundations, Roman baths, and a Crusader cathedral begun in 1124 after the city fell to the kings of Jerusalem. Earthquakes and the rising sea have taken much of the original island. What remains stands in salt air and quiet.
The colour Tyre gave the world was a deep red-violet called Tyrian purple, drawn from the gland of the Murex sea snail and worth more than gold by weight in the Roman period. Pliny the Elder wrote in the first century that the best dye took ten thousand snails to make a single garment. The shell middens behind the modern town are still visible. The fishing harbour today is small and working; mackerel, sardine, and sea bream come in before dawn, and the water by the breakwater stays clear.