— — the sea castle the crusaders left behind.
“A Phoenician port the world has been writing about for three thousand years. The Sea Castle stands a short stone causeway out from the old harbour, built by crusaders in 1228 on a rock the Phoenicians used before them. Below it the fish boats still come in. Sidon is a working city that happens to be older than most countries.
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Sidon, called Saida in Arabic, is the third-largest city in Lebanon, about 40 kilometres south of Beirut on the eastern Mediterranean coast. The old harbour anchors the historic core, which holds the Sea Castle, the Khan al-Franj caravanserai, and a covered souk that has been continuously inhabited since the Bronze Age. The city was one of the principal Phoenician ports alongside Tyre and Byblos, named in the Iliad and the Hebrew Bible, and serves today as the capital of the South Governorate.
The Sidon Sea Castle was built by the crusaders around 1228 on a small island linked to the mainland by a narrow stone causeway about eighty metres long. The builders reused Roman columns as horizontal binders in the walls, and they still protrude from the stonework today. Mamluks partly dismantled it after retaking the city; later restorations and the 1837 earthquake reshaped what stands. The Khan al-Franj, a 17th-century caravanserai built by Emir Fakhreddine II, anchors the souk a few streets inland.
Sidon sits about 45 minutes south of Beirut on the coastal highway, the same road that continues to Tyre. The Sea Castle, the Soap Museum housed in a 17th-century building, and the Khan al-Franj are within a ten-minute walk of each other in the old town. The Audi family's Soap Museum traces Sidon's olive-oil soap trade and is free to enter. Friday is the quietest morning in the souk, and the fish market by the harbour runs earliest.