— — the spires the river kept.
“The capital that grew up around a river and a cathedral. Old Riga rises in tight medieval blocks behind the Daugava, then opens into the Art Nouveau quarter, a few streets where almost every facade has a face. The same Baltic cold-light that paints Tallinn and Helsinki, two ferries away.
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Riga sits on the Daugava River about 15 kilometres upstream of the Gulf of Riga, the capital of Latvia since 1918 and the largest city in the Baltic states with roughly 600,000 residents. Bishop Albert founded the settlement in 1201, and the medieval core, anchored by Riga Cathedral and St. Peter's Church, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The city is the seat of the Saeima and the historical centre of Hanseatic trade on the eastern Baltic.
The Old Town is a layered record in brick and limestone: St. Peter's Church, whose tower reached 123 metres after its 1973 reconstruction; the House of the Blackheads, rebuilt in 1999 after wartime demolition; and the Three Brothers, the oldest of which dates to about 1490. A short walk north, Alberta iela holds the densest concentration of Jugendstil facades in Europe, much of it designed by Mikhail Eisenstein in the early 1900s. The carved faces and ironwork above the doors are the city's signature.
The Old Town is reached on foot; cars are restricted inside the ring of former bastions. Riga International Airport sits 10 kilometres west of the centre, with frequent buses on the 22 route. The House of the Blackheads, the Latvian National Museum of Art, and the Art Nouveau Museum on Alberta iela 12 are all within twenty minutes of one another. Summer light stretches past 10 p.m. in June; in deep winter the Daugava ices over near the bridges and the spires read sharper against the grey.