— the city the holy mountain watches.
“A Fergana Valley city, perhaps three thousand years old, with the limestone ridge of Sulayman-Too rising out of the middle of it. The Jayma Bazaar still runs for about two kilometres along the Ak-Buura River, the same Silk Road market line it has held since the medieval period. Pilgrims climb the mountain at dawn. The city below cooks plov, sells silk, and goes about its day.
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Osh sits in the western Fergana Valley, the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan with a population near 300,000. It is one of Central Asia's oldest continuously inhabited cities, with archaeological layers reaching back perhaps three thousand years. The Ak-Buura River runs through the centre, and the limestone outcrop of Sulayman-Too rises 175 metres above the surrounding plain, visible from anywhere in the city. Osh sits about 300 kilometres south of Bishkek and lies just across the Uzbek border from Andijan.
Sulayman-Too, the Throne of Solomon, is a five-peaked limestone ridge in the centre of the city, named for the prophet Sulayman in Islamic tradition. It has been a place of pilgrimage for at least two millennia, with petroglyphs, mountaintop shrines, and a small mosque built by the Mughal emperor Babur in 1510 near the summit. UNESCO inscribed the mountain as a World Heritage Site in 2009, the first such listing in Kyrgyzstan. Pilgrims still climb the rock face at dawn for healing prayer.
Osh is reached by domestic flights from Bishkek in about 45 minutes, or overland on the Bishkek-Osh road across the Ala-Too range, around a ten-hour drive. The Jayma Bazaar runs for about two kilometres along the Ak-Buura River and is busiest on Sunday mornings. Summers are hot and dry, with daytime highs near 35 degrees Celsius from June through August. Winters are mild for the region, with occasional snow between December and February. Many foreign travellers come through on the Pamir Highway.