— — the lake the flamingos turn pink.
“A city on the floor of the Great Rift Valley, two hours northwest of Nairobi, sitting beside the soda lake that gave it its name. Lake Nakuru pulls hundreds of thousands of lesser flamingos onto its shallow alkaline edges when conditions hold. The national park around the lake also keeps black and white rhino, Rothschild's giraffe, and the yellow-bark acacias the leopards sleep in.
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Nakuru is the capital of Nakuru County and Kenya's fourth-largest urban centre, with a population of about 570,000 in the city and 2.1 million in the wider county. It sits on the floor of the Great Rift Valley at 1,850 metres above sea level, roughly 160 kilometres northwest of Nairobi along the A104 highway. The city wraps the northern and eastern shore of Lake Nakuru, a shallow soda lake at the centre of Lake Nakuru National Park, gazetted in 1961 and covering about 188 square kilometres.
Lake Nakuru is a shallow alkaline soda lake, varying in depth between roughly one and four metres depending on the rains, with a pH that can climb past ten. The alkalinity supports vast blooms of the cyanobacterium Arthrospira fusiformis, the principal food of the lesser flamingo. In good years the lake's edges turn pink with hundreds of thousands of birds. The flamingos have moved increasingly between Nakuru, Bogoria, and Elementaita as lake levels have risen sharply since 2010 across the Rift Valley lakes.
Lake Nakuru National Park is one of Kenya's most visited reserves, reached by tar road from Nairobi in about three hours. The park is open daily, with gate fees set by the Kenya Wildlife Service in two tiers for residents and non-residents. Inside the fence are black and white rhino, Rothschild's giraffe, buffalo, and leopards that sleep in the yellow-bark acacias along the southern shore. Baboon Cliff on the western escarpment is the standard viewpoint over the lake.