— — a town the dhow wind built and never paved.
“An island town off Kenya's northern coast, founded in the twelfth century and continuously inhabited since. There are almost no cars on Lamu. Goods move by donkey through the lanes of the Old Town and by dhow between the islands of the archipelago. The houses are coral rag and lime, carved doors set into white walls, courtyards open to the trade wind that has shaped the Swahili coast for a thousand years.
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Lamu Island sits in the Lamu Archipelago, off the northern coast of Kenya near the Somali border, at roughly two degrees south of the equator. Lamu Old Town, the principal settlement, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 as the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa. The town has been continuously inhabited for at least seven hundred years, and motor vehicles are effectively absent — donkeys remain the primary land transport through its narrow stone lanes.
The Old Town's houses are built of coral rag — blocks cut from fossil reef — bonded with lime mortar and finished in white plaster. The classic Swahili door, carved in heavy hardwood with brass studs and lotus or fish motifs, marks the entry to a courtyard house arranged inward, away from the street. The Lamu Museum, the German Post Office Museum, and the Riyadha Mosque sit within a few minutes' walk of one another along the seafront and through the lanes behind it.
Lamu's climate is shaped by two monsoon winds. The kaskazi blows from the northeast between November and March, the wind that for centuries carried Arab dhows down the coast from the Persian Gulf. The kusi blows from the southwest from April through October and carried them back. The same winds cool the courtyards at night and lift the dhow sails between the islands. Daytime temperatures stay between 27 and 32 degrees Celsius year-round, with the long rains arriving in April and May.