— — a desert town with coral at the doorstep.
“Jordan's one window on the sea, a small port city at the very top of the Red Sea where four countries' coastlines come within sight of each other. The mountains of the Wadi Rum run down to the water in red and dust-gold; the reef begins thirty feet offshore. Petra is an hour and a half north. The Mamluk fort by the corniche has watched the Hejaz route since the 1500s.
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Aqaba is Jordan's only seaport and its only coastal city, set at the head of the Gulf of Aqaba where the Sinai meets the Arabian Peninsula. Around 148,000 people live here, in a flat strip between the Red Sea and the granite of the Hejaz mountains. From the corniche you can see Eilat in Israel directly across the bay, Egypt's Taba to the west, and the Saudi shoreline running south. The city is the southern terminus of the King's Highway and the practical gateway to Wadi Rum, 60 kilometres inland.
The Gulf of Aqaba is a deep, narrow finger of the Red Sea — over 1,800 metres deep at its centre — and its corals sit closer to shore than at almost any reef in the world. Many of the Aqaba dive sites begin within twenty metres of the beach. The Aqaba Marine Park, established in 1997, protects seven kilometres of the coast. The water stays between 20 and 27°C through the year, warm enough to snorkel in February. Visibility commonly runs past 25 metres on a settled day.
The Aqaba Fort, also called the Mamluk Castle, sits at the south end of the corniche behind a square plan of dressed sandstone and crenellated walls. The fortress in its present form was built by the last Mamluk sultan, Qansuh al-Ghuri, around 1510 to protect pilgrims on the Hejaz route to Mecca. T. E. Lawrence and the forces of the Arab Revolt took the city from the Ottomans in July 1917, an action commemorated by the flagpole at the fort — at 130 metres, briefly the tallest in the world.