— — the old city that learned to keep climbing the hills.
“Jordan's capital sits at roughly 2,500 feet on a plateau in the country's north. The old centre wraps a Roman theatre cut into the side of Jabal al-Joufah; above it, the Citadel holds the remains of the Umayyad palace and the Temple of Hercules. The city was Rabbath-Ammon to the Ammonites, Philadelphia to the Greeks and Romans, and Amman to the modern kingdom. Pale limestone covers nearly every building by law.
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Amman is the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan and its largest city, holding about 4 million people in the metropolitan area. It sits on a high plateau at the northern edge of the Arabian Peninsula, between the Jordan River valley to the west and the eastern desert. The historic core was built across seven hills, or jabals, around a perennial spring at the head of the Wadi Amman; the modern city now covers more than nineteen named jabals, with elevation at the Citadel reaching roughly 850 metres.
Nearly every building in Amman is faced in pale limestone, the result of a municipal regulation that has shaped the city's surface since the mid-twentieth century. The stone is quarried locally and known as Hajar Ma'an, the stone of Ma'an, after the southern town near the largest deposits. The Citadel on Jabal al-Qal'a holds the most visible older stonework — the Temple of Hercules dating to the second century, the Umayyad palace complex from around 730, and a Byzantine church between them.
The Roman Theatre at the foot of Jabal al-Joufah was cut into the hillside in the second century and seats roughly six thousand. It is open daily and houses two small folklore museums. The Citadel above the theatre is reached by a steep staircase or a short taxi ride; entry is a single ticket that also covers the Jordan Archaeological Museum on the hilltop. Rainbow Street on Jabal Amman holds the city's most active cafés and small galleries, walkable from downtown in about thirty minutes.