— — the last island before the map turns to water.
“The westernmost speck of Japan, closer to the lights of Taiwan than to Naha. Sugarcane on the windward slopes, native horses grazing where the road ends at Cape Irizaki. Off the south coast, divers winter here for the hammerheads, and for the strange stepped sandstone the locals found in 1986, eighty feet down.
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Yonaguni is the westernmost inhabited island of Japan, in Okinawa Prefecture, about 108 km from the east coast of Taiwan and 509 km west of Okinawa's main island. The island covers roughly 29 square kilometres and is home to about 1,700 people across three villages: Sonai, Kubura, and Higawa. Cape Irizaki marks the westernmost point of Japanese territory. The island is reached by a forty-minute flight from Ishigaki or a four-hour ferry. Sugarcane and the small native Yonaguni horse define the inland landscape; the coast is broken cliff and reef.
In the winter months, from late December through February, schools of hammerhead sharks gather off the southern cape, one of the few reliable hammerhead aggregations in the world, drawing divers from across Asia. The bigger draw for some is the Yonaguni Monument, a stepped sandstone formation found in 1986 by local dive guide Kihachirō Aratake about 25 metres below the surface. Whether the right-angle terraces are natural fracture or human-cut remains contested among geologists and archaeologists. The water is warmest in summer; the visibility holds best when the trade wind drops.
Yonaguni Airport (OGN) takes daily flights from Ishigaki on Japan Transocean Air; the Fukuyama Kaiun ferry runs from Ishigaki twice weekly when weather allows, a four-hour crossing the locals call rough even by Okinawan standards. There is one town with a handful of small inns, a handful of awamori distilleries, and a scattering of seafood restaurants serving Yonaguni's famous kajiki marlin. Cape Irizaki holds a small lighthouse and a marker for the westernmost point of Japan; on clear days the mountains of Taiwan show on the horizon at sunset.