— — a thousand people, one breath, every two minutes.
“Five streets meet outside the Hachikō exit of Shibuya Station, and every two minutes or so all of them go red at once. The crowd that has been gathering on the corners steps off the kerb in every direction at the same time. Up to three thousand people cross in a single light cycle at the peak of a Friday night. From the Starbucks window above the Tsutaya building, or from the Shibuya Sky deck two hundred and thirty metres up, the pattern is the thing. from the studio
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Shibuya Scramble Crossing sits at the northwest exit of Shibuya Station in Shibuya City, one of the twenty-three special wards of Tokyo. The intersection is an x-shaped scramble: five approaches and five crosswalks, all of which release at the same green-man phase. Estimates of pedestrian volume range from about twelve hundred to three thousand people per light cycle at peak hours, with daily flow through the surrounding station complex above two and a half million. The crossing first opened in its current form in the 1970s alongside the redevelopment of the station's Hachikō exit, named for the Akita dog whose 1934 bronze statue stands a few metres away.
Two upper windows look down on the crossing. The Starbucks on the second floor of the Tsutaya building on the north-east corner is the long-standing free vantage; it is small and the window seats fill fast on weekend evenings. Shibuya Sky, the open-air observation deck on the forty-fifth and forty-sixth floors of Shibuya Scramble Square, rises two hundred and thirty metres above the intersection and gives the wider view; tickets are time-slot reserved and cost around two thousand five hundred yen. Friday and Saturday nights from about seven to ten are the peak window for crowd volume; rain pulls umbrellas into the frame and is its own kind of photograph.
Halloween night and New Year's Eve are the two cycles in the year when the crossing becomes the event rather than the route. Halloween in Shibuya grew through the 2010s into one of Tokyo's largest unticketed gatherings, with costumed crowds filling Center-gai and the surrounding streets; Shibuya City has since asked visitors to stay away on October 31st and has banned street drinking in the area year-round in response. New Year's countdown spills out of the station from about eleven on December 31st and is policed in waves to keep the scramble itself moving. The Hachikō statue is the standard meeting point in either crowd.