— — the grid the snow keeps redrawing.
“Sapporo sits in the centre of Hokkaido, laid out on a north-south grid the Meiji planners borrowed from American railway towns. Odori Park runs straight through the middle, a green ribbon that becomes the spine of the Snow Festival each February when ice sculptors fill it end to end. North of the city, Moiwa's chairlift climbs into older forest.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
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Sapporo is the capital of Hokkaido and Japan's fifth-largest city, holding roughly 1.97 million people. The city was founded in 1869 during the Meiji government's settlement of the northern island, laid out on a north-south grid by American advisors including Horace Capron. That plan makes it visually unlike older Japanese cities. Odori Park, the central east-west boulevard, runs about 1.5 kilometres through the downtown. The 1972 Winter Olympics were held here, the first Winter Games staged in Asia.
The Sapporo Snow Festival, Yuki Matsuri, has run every February since 1950, when local high-school students built six snow statues in Odori Park. The modern festival fills Odori, the Susukino entertainment district, and the Tsudome venue for roughly a week, with sculptures reaching several stories tall built by the Japan Self-Defense Forces among others. Attendance has reached around 2 million visitors at its peak. Average February temperatures in Sapporo sit near minus 4°C, with snow already deep on the ground.
Most visitors arrive at New Chitose Airport about 45 kilometres south, connected to the city by a rapid train running in about 37 minutes. Within the city the subway opened in time for the 1972 Olympics and now covers three lines. Moiwayama, on the southwest edge, has a ropeway running to a summit observation deck at 531 metres; the night view from there has been ranked among Japan's three best, with Nagasaki and Kobe. The Sapporo Beer Museum, in a brick malt house from 1890, is free to enter.