— — an island the mainland forgets for most of the year.
“Sado sits about an hour by jetfoil from Niigata, large enough to hold two mountain ranges and a long valley of rice between them. The old gold mine at Aikawa was, for a stretch in the Edo period, the most productive in Japan. Today the quieter draw is the taraibune — round tub boats the women still row through the rock inlets at Ogi. The crested ibis, the toki, was brought back from the edge here, and the calls carry across paddy water at dusk. from the studio
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Sado is the sixth-largest island of Japan at about 855 square kilometres, lying roughly 45 kilometres off the Niigata coast in the Sea of Japan. Two parallel mountain ranges — Ōsado in the north and Kosado in the south — frame the Kuninaka Plain, the rice basin between them. The island is reached from Niigata Port by a one-hour jetfoil to Ryōtsu or a two-and-a-half-hour car ferry. Sado City, formed in 2004 by the merger of ten municipalities, is the single administrative body covering the whole island.
Sado has a long second life as a place of exile: the retired Emperor Juntoku was sent here in 1221, the monk Nichiren in 1271, and the Noh master Zeami in 1434. The Sado Kinzan gold and silver mine at Aikawa opened in 1601 and ran until 1989, and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2024. The Kodo drummers, founded on the island in 1981, hold their Earth Celebration festival each August at Ogi.
The crested ibis, the toki, was declared extinct in the wild in Japan in 2003 and reintroduced on Sado from 2008 onward. As of recent surveys more than 500 wild toki now live on the island, almost all of them on Sado. The rice paddies around Niibo and Kuninaka are farmed under a low-pesticide certification that protects their feeding habitat, and at dusk in the south valley you can hear them calling between fields without seeing another car for an hour.