— a kitchen that has fed the country for four hundred years.
“A merchant city at the mouth of the Yodo River, where Hideyoshi raised his castle in 1583 and the kitchens of Japan have run since. Osaka Castle's white walls hold a green-tiled keep above the moat. Dōtonbori's canal still pulls a crowd at night, and the okonomiyaki griddles smoke through the alleys past the river.
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Capital of Osaka Prefecture, on the eastern shore of Osaka Bay where the Yodo River reaches the Seto Inland Sea. The city population is about 2.7 million, and the wider Keihanshin metropolitan area, which links Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe, holds roughly 19 million people, the second-largest in Japan after greater Tokyo. Kyoto lies about 40 kilometres northeast, fifteen minutes by Shinkansen. Founded as Naniwa and briefly imperial capital in the seventh century, Osaka grew through the Edo period as Japan's mercantile and commodity-trading hub.
Osaka Castle stands on massive granite terraces above two concentric moats, built originally by Toyotomi Hideyoshi beginning in 1583 after he consolidated power over the country. Hideyoshi's keep burned in the 1615 Siege of Osaka; the eight-storey reinforced-concrete tenshu visible today was finished in 1931 with green-tiled roofs and gilt tiger reliefs across the gables. The surrounding park covers roughly 106 hectares, with Hokoku Shrine on the south side and cherry blossom along the inner moat in early April each year.
Osaka is known across Japan as tenka no daidokoro, the nation's kitchen. Takoyaki, the spherical wheat-batter snack with octopus inside, was invented in the city in 1935 by Tomekichi Endo at a stall in Nishinari. Okonomiyaki and kushikatsu are the other staples. The Dōtonbori district runs along a canal in Chuo Ward, lined with neon and food stalls, anchored by the Glico running-man sign, lit since 1935 and now in its sixth iteration. Spring brings cherry blossom; autumn turns the castle park amber.