— — the slow bow of a deer in late afternoon.
“Nara was Japan's capital for most of the eighth century, and the city still moves at that older pace. The deer in the park belong to the shrine, technically: descendants of a herd considered sacred at Kasuga Taisha since the 700s. They bow for the rice crackers vendors sell. Most days, that's the loudest thing in the park.
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Nara sits in the Kansai basin, about 40 kilometres south of Kyoto and 30 east of Osaka, the seat of Japan's imperial court from 710 to 794. The Nara Park district holds eight UNESCO-listed monuments, including Tōdai-ji, whose Great Buddha Hall is among the largest wooden buildings in the world, and the vermilion shrine complex of Kasuga Taisha. Roughly 1,200 sika deer roam freely through the park, protected since the eighth century and designated a national natural treasure.
Kasuga Taisha holds about 3,000 lanterns: roughly 2,000 stone lanterns along its paths and 1,000 bronze lanterns hung from its eaves. They are lit twice a year, at Setsubun Mantoro in early February and Chugen Mantoro on the nights of 14 and 15 August. On those evenings the path through the cedar grove reads as a corridor of soft amber, and the shrine returns to something close to how it looked in the Heian period.
Nara Park is open continuously and free to enter. Tōdai-ji's Great Buddha Hall charges 800 yen and opens at 7:30 in summer, 8:00 in winter. Shika senbei, the deer crackers vendors sell at marked stalls, cost 200 yen a bundle and are the only food the deer should be offered. The park is a 20-minute walk from Kintetsu Nara Station, or 25 minutes from JR Nara on the slower line.