— the valley the mountains keep watch over.
“The city in the bowl of the Japan Alps. Zenkō-ji has stood at the top of its long stone street for nearly fourteen centuries, and the pilgrims still climb it before dawn. North of town the snow monkeys sit in their hot spring while the snow comes down around them. Most travellers come for the temple or the mountains. The city quietly holds both.
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Nagano sits at roughly 371 metres in a basin ringed by the Hida, Kiso, and Akaishi ranges, the three chains that make up the Japanese Alps. Capital of Nagano Prefecture, central Honshu, with a city population near 370,000. Host of the XVIII Olympic Winter Games in February 1998. The Hokuriku Shinkansen connects Tokyo Station to Nagano in about 90 minutes. The Sai and Chikuma rivers meet just north of the city, and the Zenkō-ji plateau rises above them on the northwestern side of the basin.
Zenkō-ji, founded by tradition in 642 CE, anchors the city at the head of Nakamise-dōri. The main hall is free to enter; the Okaidan, the Pilgrimage of the Pitch-Dark Corridor beneath the inner sanctuary, costs ¥600. The 4:30 AM o-asaji morning service is open to all visitors. Forty kilometres north, Jigokudani Monkey Park opens at 09:00 and the Japanese macaques bathe through the winter months. Matsumoto Castle, an hour south by limited express, holds one of Japan's twelve surviving original keeps.
Winters are long. Average January lows sit near minus four degrees Celsius, with snow on the upper basin walls from December through March. The 1998 Winter Olympics came here for that reason. Spring brings cherry blossom along the Susohana embankment by early April. Autumn at Togakushi, an hour northwest, peaks in mid-October with maple and beech. Summer is mild and dry by Japanese standards, a draw for hikers heading up into Kamikōchi and the trailheads above Matsumoto.