— — the black keep that kept its first timbers.
“A castle town on the Matsukawa plain, ringed by the Hida and Akaishi ranges. The keep is black-lacquered cypress and pine, one of only twelve original donjons left in Japan. From the inner moat the mountains stand behind it without effort, and the water carries the reflection back upside-down. Locals call it Karasu-jō, the Crow Castle.
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Matsumoto sits on the Matsukawa plain in central Nagano Prefecture at about 592 metres elevation, between the Hida Mountains to the west and the Utsukushigahara highlands to the east. The city of roughly 240,000 grew around its 16th-century castle, completed in the form it holds today around 1594 under Ishikawa Yasunaga. Trains from Tokyo arrive in about two and a half hours on the Azusa limited express. The Kamikōchi alpine valley and the Norikura Skyline lie within the same municipal boundary, which makes the city a base for both castle visitors and Hida-range hikers.
The donjon is not stone but black-lacquered timber over a stone base, raised between 1593 and 1594 by the Ishikawa clan. It is the oldest five-tiered, six-storey keep still standing in Japan, designated a National Treasure in 1952. The black weatherboarding gives it the nickname Karasu-jō, the Crow Castle, against the snow on the Hida peaks behind it. A later peace-era wing, the Tsukimi Yagura or moon-viewing turret, was added in the 1630s under the Matsudaira and opens directly onto the inner moat.
Cherry blossom along the outer moat usually peaks in mid-April, about two weeks behind Tokyo because of the elevation. The castle holds an evening illumination during the bloom and again in autumn when the maples on the inner bailey turn. Winter brings dry cold and a clean view of the Hida snowline behind the keep, which is the angle most often painted. Summer is humid on the plain but stays bearable at night, and the August Takigi Noh torchlit performance is held on a stage set inside the moat.