— — a city the water keeps and gives back.
“Venice holds together on 118 small islands in a shallow lagoon at the head of the Adriatic. There are no cars. The Grand Canal makes a long S through the centre, and four hundred-some bridges stitch the rest. In November the water rises in the lower campi and the duckboards come out. By March the tide is back where it lived before. The bells from San Marco carry over the rooftops, then settle on the water.
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Venice is the capital of the Veneto region in northeastern Italy and the seat of a metropolitan area of about 850,000. The historic city covers 118 small islands inside a 550-square-kilometre lagoon at the head of the Adriatic Sea, connected by some 400 bridges and divided by the Grand Canal. About 50,000 people now live in the centro storico, down from roughly 175,000 in the 1950s. The whole of Venice and its lagoon was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
Venice is built on millions of alder, oak, and larch piles driven into the lagoon clay; the piles, kept anaerobic by the silt, have held the city up for more than a thousand years. The seasonal high tide called acqua alta floods the lower campi each autumn and winter, peaking most years between October and January. Saint Mark's Square sits at one of the lowest points in the city, around 64 centimetres above mean sea level, and is among the first places the water reaches.
Saint Mark's Basilica, consecrated in its present form in 1094, fronts the eastern end of the square with five gilded domes and a façade of marble columns and mosaic. The Doge's Palace beside it is the seat of the former Republic of Venice, rebuilt in pink Verona marble after fires in the 14th and 16th centuries. The Rialto Bridge, designed by Antonio da Ponte and finished in 1591, is the oldest of the four bridges that cross the Grand Canal; it carries shops along both balustrades.