
— half the city, kept for walking.
“Twenty-three hectares of walled garden behind St. Peter's Basilica. Most of the western half of Vatican City, almost none of it open to the public. Only a small guided tour from the museums goes in. Inside: a Renaissance casino with a frescoed loggia, a Lourdes grotto given by French pilgrims in 1902, a radio tower Marconi built in 1931. The dome catches the crowds out front. Behind the wall, the pope takes his walks.

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The Vatican Gardens occupy roughly 23 hectares behind St. Peter's Basilica, covering most of the western half of Vatican City State, the world's smallest sovereign country. They sit on Vatican Hill, walled off from the surrounding city of Rome. The grounds blend three landscape traditions: a formal Italian Renaissance section closest to the Apostolic Palace, a French parterre, and an English-style landscape garden of meadows and clearings. The first papal gardens here were laid out around 1279 under Pope Nicholas III, who moved the official papal residence from the Lateran. The Pontifical Villas administration tends the grounds today; entry is by guided tour through the Vatican Museums.
Almost no one walks the gardens. While tens of thousands crowd St. Peter's Square and the Sistine Chapel each day, only a few small guided groups pass through the gates behind the basilica. The walls cut the noise of Rome down to birdsong and water. Pope Francis, in his first years after his 2013 election, took regular afternoon walks among the cedars and along the path past the Casino of Pius IV. The Casino, designed in 1561 by the Mannerist architect Pirro Ligorio for Pope Pius IV, now houses the Pontifical Academy of Sciences. The garden is the working back yard of the papacy: a place for thinking, for prayer, for the slow business of governing a global church.
The Vatican Gardens are open only by guided tour booked through the Vatican Museums. Tours run on most mornings except Wednesdays and Sundays, last about two hours, and combine the gardens with admission to the Sistine Chapel and the museum galleries. The standard tour follows a fixed path past the Fountain of the Eagle, the Casino of Pius IV, and a replica Grotto of Lourdes presented as a French gift in 1902. Photography is permitted along the route but the gardens are otherwise out of reach to the general public. Booking is recommended weeks in advance because the daily group sizes are small. A separate open-bus tour also runs for visitors with mobility limits.